Re: OB1 Prism
What does that look like? One of the attractions of this extrusion other than the simple and cheap hardware, is the purchase cost. Here in New Zealand, the cost of the Misumi extrusions make it almost...
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The frame is basically finished, now to do the y axis. I am using a stock x-ends and my x-carriage and extruder. B640x480-2.jpg
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Baby Prism uploaded to Thingiverse here: [www.thingiverse.com] Framecomplete021640x480.jpg
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Your machine is looking really good! I saw your video of it printing - very nice. The Atzeeg X3 looks very smoothI really like the look of the helios bed. How is it performing for you? Thinking of...
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I am very impressed with the Panucatt Helios hot bed, it is a lot thicker than the others and flatter. Plus the wiring is so easy with the thermistor tracks etched in already. I am a little suspicious...
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I was going to build a mendel 90 as my next printer, but I'm leaning towards the OB1 design. I just ordered my extrusions from openbeamusa.com, and my Helios hot bed from Panucatt. I think I'm just...
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I need to get started on the documentation (oops) it is lots of fun building it but not so much documenting it. I used acme lead screws and nuts from Nate at Techpaladin TechPaladin - Nate is super...
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That terrawatt leadscrew looks great! It better be...@$70 for two... mcmcaster.com 1/4"-16 ACME screw $7 for 3'. Add (4) matching nuts @ $2 each and you have essentially the same resolution for $15...
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Thanks for the tip. I was a little overwhelmed at the McMaster site and was uncertain what I needed. Terra watt simplified it by having a packaged solution. I'm definitely going the, McMaster route....
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Mcmaster Part # 98935A803 Plain steel 1/4"-16 ACME rod, 3ft. $7.71 Granted - they are plain steel and *will* rust if left unprotected. But a nice coating of PTFE grease will prevent that from...
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I wish they would. :( I think they have some contract with the US Gvt to supply the military, so they won't ship outside the US. Not even to Canada.
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Did you make that aluminum sub bed yourself, or is there a source? I like the look of it, but don't quite know how I'd go about making my own. I could probably rig up something close using aluminum...
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Yes I made it from a piece of 6mm thick aluminium. I went along to an aluminium joiner and asked him to cut me a piece 230mm square and then drilled it out at home. You could make it from acrylic...
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I just ordered a custom-cut aluminum sheet - 1/4 inch thick and 9.055 inches square - basically 6mm x 230mm x 230mm - from speedymetal.com. They quoted me $10 (plus shipping). I thought that was a...
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I guess you're using slic3r as opposed to skeinforge. Ztop and ycarriage both had significant slicing issues with skeinforge, but sliced perfectly with slic3r. I was never really happy with my results...
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I've only used Slic3r and I am using the version 0.9.3 without any problems. I'm not sure how an STL could work better with one slicer than another but I'll take you word for it. I take a lot of care...
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OK - today I finished basic assembly of my printer, and rough wired everything just to see how things were working. Still a far way from actually printing, but I've made significant progress. I have...
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Yes I had some issues with the y-idler too. I replaced the springs with 4mm machine screws and nuts and have got it right now but you do have to muck about with each side to get the belt to stay...
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I'm actually using all of your parts for the x carriage and the extruder, including the gears. One thing that might be different though is the diameter of the pulley I am using on the X axis. Mine's...
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I am using just a 608 bearing on the idler side and the printed 23 tooth pulley on the other side. I am a bit annoyed at this limitation as it would have been easy to correct it with the angle of the...
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I'm using marlin too. I thought there were two different values for x and y steps/mm. This implies to me that the pulleys can be different - unless there is another parameter I am not thinking of.
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Yes in configuration.h it does do the steps/mm for each but unfortunately it defines "#define GEAR_TEETH 23 // Enter number of teeth on X and Y gears"
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I have made a guided roller today that fits over the 608 bearing and works with the existing y-idler tensioner. The 608 is a press fit and I used a plain flat washer on the open side and it seems to...
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Interesting. I printed something similar that I found on thingverse, but haven't gotten around to installing it yet. I wasn't 100% happy with it so maybe I'll print yours instead. The important word...
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I have been thinking all day about this limitation and have a slight modification I am testing at the moment. The idea is the front two uprights are the problem so I am moving them back to directly...
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Doesn't moving the two uprights to under the middle of the two top bars put them between the X smooth rods? I'd need to revisit my extruder mount because right now I'm parallel to the axis which means...
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This is the direction I was thinking of. Attached are two stl files. I worked this out in openscad. One stl file contains the lower corners with the angle of the upright changed from 60 to 70. I...
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I like that solution, the uprights stay the same and it fixes the problem with the belt and the extruder motor all in one. If you are able to print now you should make these and fit them to your...
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As I'm going through this process, I'm realizing that the entire upper part of the frame does nothing except provide rigidity to the Z axis, and it seems to me as if the move to 10mm rods provides...
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